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How To Fix L2 Code On Maytag Dryer

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m1bondo

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I have a 2 year old Maytag Bravos MCT dryer that will not produce heat most of the time. Every now and then it will heat for a portion of the dry cycle but never for the entire cycle. This is happening on both the automatic and timed modes. The model number is MEDB850WQ0 and the serial number is M03228662. I should also mention that this is the second time we've had this problem.

The first was in February 2013. The machine was giving an error code of F31 (L2 Line Voltage Error) so, since we'd purchased the dryer at Sears, we had a Sears serviceman come out to fix it. He checked everything out per the Tech Sheet (p/n W10156733A) and found no failures among the thermistors, heating element, thermal fuses, or thermal cut-off. When there are no other failed parts, the Tech Sheet flags the Electronic Control as failed. It was replaced (p/n W10111620) and the problem was resolved.

Now it's August and the heat isn't working again. Again it's an F31 error code. This time I've used the Tech Sheet to check everything out and once again all the components test out as valid. Just to confirm, I had a different serviceman out and he found the same thing. It seems like it must be the Electronic Control again. Can anyone suggest a different cause?

Oops, typed the error code as F30 when in fact it was F31. I've corrected it in both places. Sorry for any confusion this may have caused.

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8 Years Ago by m1bondo

Woody1

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Thank you for your post on The Repair Forum today.
Not sure why they checked all the thermostats they are on L1 leg of the dryers electrical circuit not the L2 side.

L2 only feeds the Heating element Circuit.

L2 is normally a household electrical issue where the voltage coming to the dryer has dropped below 30 Volts A/C to the unit .

I would check the household electrical supply to the dryer and the pigtail /Cord that is attached to the dryer with the unit off and with the unit running .

If there is a voltage lose with the dryer running you have a household electrical issue .

And it may only happen when some other appliance that is also running and that uses the L2 leg of the electrical system within the home .

But this fault code is very ,very seldom an appliance parts issue but an electrical system .

Woody
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m1bondo

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Thanks Woody.

I've checked both legs of the outlet as well as the cord and everything checks out fine. The heat is not working at this moment but I've just confirmed the dryer is receiving the full voltage at the terminal.

John

Woody1

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And when you are checking the voltage with the dryer running?

and do you have a Wiring diagram ?

And are you able to read one?

Woody
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m1bondo

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Woody1 (8/18/2013)


And when you are checking the voltage with the dryer running?

and do you have a Wiring diagram ?

And are you able to read one?

Yes, I'm measuring it while the dryer is running. I also need to mention that I'm not always seeing the L2 code but I am ALWAYS seeing F31 when I access the error codes. Regardless of whether L2 appears, if I use the Display Line Voltage diagnostic, it always displays 121/122.

I'm using the wiring diagram from the tech sheet which may be found online at: Tech Sheet

I'm passable at reading them but certainly wouldn't want to be disarming bombs.

Woody1

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I too have tech sheet from Whirlpool .

So you are getting the

F-31 and the L2 code.

Both of these lead to L-2 power electrical supply to the unit.

I would suspect a voltage drop while the unit is running ( could be a loose connction ,a faulty circuit breaker)

But as you know it does not happen all the time just every so often.

And you have 120/122 but do you have 220/240 to the range at all times?

Woody
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m1bondo

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Woody1 (8/18/2013)


I too have tech sheet from Whirlpool .

So you are getting the

F-31 and the L2 code.

Both of these lead to L-2 power electrical supply to the unit.

I would suspect a voltage drop while the unit is running ( could be a loose connction ,a faulty circuit breaker)

But as you know it does not happen all the time just every so often.

And you have 120/122 but do you have 220/240 to the range at all times?

It's been 220-240 at the terminal every time I've checked it with the dryer running.

Woody1

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Well if you only get the code once in a while and you have has the control replaced .

I recommend to call an electrician to check the circuit to the dryer , because at times you are loosing the L2 leg of the circuit.

Woody
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m1bondo

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If the loss of the L2 is intermittent, shouldn't I get heat the rest of the time? As it is right now, I get heat about 1 time in 30 attempts and then only for about 10 minutes. Given that I'm not seeing any variation in the voltage at the terminal, doesn't this suggest an internal voltage control issue?

Woody1

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Well it is a small possibility you could have a loose connection within the unit , that would also add to the on again off again issue of it showing the code .

Woody
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How To Fix L2 Code On Maytag Dryer

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